Homer Alaska

October 22, 2019

Tumbleweed has come to rest for the winter in Homer, Alaska. Despite the conversations of vicious weather and isolation, we are looking forward to a season up north. Settling in for several months has a deep appeal after so many months on the move. As far back as Fiji, we have been continually on the move, researching our next destinations, tracking weather, managing boat repairs, juggling life aboard in a foreign port with all the daily adventures around domestic tasks that entails. We have not been in a single place for more than a month since we left Opua in New Zealand. There has been an underlying emotional cost to being unsettled, offset by the thrill of our adventures and the enjoyment of the beautiful places we were traveling to be sure, but the chance to settle in for a bit and recharge before heading south in the spring feels really good.

The marina is at the end of a three mile long spit that runs into the Kachemak bay. Homer is a terminus of the Alaskan road system, leaving us at the end of the end of something. The spit is two lanes of road with a slice of beach on either side, with a tidal range of up to 28 feet that can reduce the beaches to a thin sliver or expose long shallow flats at low tide. Across from the marina is Kachemak Bay State Park with a spectacular range of mountains and glaciers that are now showing light dustings of snow at the higher elevations.

Homer is connected by road to Anchorage and for most of the year to the greater world. In winter this area typically is hit with severe weather, high winds, deep snow, ice, sub-freezing weather, though all tempered by proximity to the sea. Weather is high on our topics of conversation and the answers are inconsistent. The past few winters have been warmer than usual, but long time Homer residents are quick to point out, perhaps even relish, that weather on the spit can be horrible, with storm surges sending water, rocks and debris over the road, where it can ice up and block passage to town. We have also been warned of high snow loads on boats, enough that boats left untended have been sunk in the marina.

Leaving Dutch Harbor in late August we planned to make for Kodiak as quickly as possible. We were considering wintering over in Kodiak or Cordova. With a good weather window we left Dutch Harbor for King Cove sailing overnight with excellent conditions. For the next few weeks we traveled as the weather allowed and watched as summer gave way to fall. We had days with gentle breezes and sunshine followed by days of rain and high winds that kept us tucked away in marinas and coves that dot the Alaskan peninsula. It was a slow, methodical method of traveling and we struggled for balance. We wanted to find a home for the winter but we were in places of such exquisite beauty, so remote and raw, that we wanted to linger.

Alaska is unlike any other area we have visited. Along the peninsula the landscape is dramatic with a range of volcanic cones, rugged peaks, vast upthrusts of continually changing and exposed geology. From Dutch Harbor eastward we did not see more than a small stand of trees until we reached Geographic Harbor. The Aleutians and a great section of the Alaskan Peninsula are instead covered with a dense, brushy ground cover. We anchored in deep coves surrounded by snow capped peaks, and also in the lee of islands more exposed than we would normally prefer. When the worst weather was in the forecast we had no trouble finding a secure port, but we needed to stay ahead of the weather and often the forecast would differ from the reality. Along the peninsula there are many micro climates and it is impossible to forecast for each section. Winds from the Bering sea can sweep over the peninsula, gathering speed and blasting through valleys. What might begin as a 20 knot breeze in Bristol Bay could accelerate through to 50 knots or greater.

Whales were gathered in large numbers, feeding and tending to their young. They appeared often during our passages. We often spotted many of them surfacing, sometimes popping up for a view. At times the horizon might be lined with the smoke like puffs of their exhalations. Other times they would surface too close for comfort and we would change course to keep a safe distance. Often the exhalations of the whales around us would hang in the air, small clouds like smoke over the water. They are majestic creatures, moving in their own frame of time but with a certain grace as they rose for air, and turned to dive, their tails slipping under the sea.

We also saw many grizzly bears. At most anchorages they strolled the shores eating salmon, or turning over rocks and logs searching for food. Many of the bears we saw were mothers with cubs, the young would wrestle and play, lazily strolling the beach, seemingly oblivious to the world around them.

Sea otters were also abundant. Quirky animals, floating on their backs snacking on crab or sea urchins, adrift in their own gastronomical thoughts. They have beautiful fur that they groom constantly to maintain their warmth. I would often glance out a port light and watch as an otter floated around on its back, a snack on its belly, grooming itself and staring at the sky. It is easy to imagine sea otters as Homer Simpsons of wild.

Our friends Catherine and Bruno on Nosy Be, en route to Sutwick Island.

In small towns and villages we were often given fish or crab, and welcomed with conversation and local insights. Told where to find blueberries, where to spot wildlife, about the local weather and best anchorages in the route ahead. There is a generosity of spirit and an openness among people that we have met since arriving in Alaska. It is something we have experienced in other remote areas but it feels somehow different. In Geographic Bay we were invited aboard to join the owners and their friends for dinner on an amazing vessel, a 94 foot research boat home bound and taking a group of friends along for an end of season trip. In other places we’ve had fishermen swing by on their skiffs for a chat, once to invite us to go caribou hunting, or if we were at dock, give the hull a little tap to say hello and ask about our travels. In Kodiak we were befriended by a woman who brought us smoked salmon, home baked cookies and drove us all over the island. We have friends that we have corresponded with since we had engine trouble as we approached Dutch Harbor. The people we have met since arriving in Alaska are a large part of what has made our last couple of months such an amazing experience. We are meeting kind and generous people in Homer which I am sure will be vital to keep us from going stir crazy over the winter.

Reading back through our Farkwar posts from the past couple of months I’m reminded of the overwhelming beauty of the wilds as we traveled from Dutch Harbor. Anchored in some of the most pristine and remote spots of our travels, and the wildlife that moved through the world around us was so much more abundant than in our other destinations. Douglas and I talk about returning to Alaska for extended cruising in the future.

Dutch Harbor to Homer Farkwar Posts

August 24, 2019

We are in King Cove after a 36 hour passage from Dutch Harbor. A beautiful trip along the uppermost edge of the North Pacific with the Aleutians to the north. Whales sending up massive spouts of water lined the southern horizon while large numbers of them were feeding along the shores of the many islands we passed. There is so much raw, rugged and remote beauty here, a stunning stretch of the world. The light winds forecast became winds in the 20’s gusting to 30 knots for much of the night, at times we were sailing at 8 knots under double reefed main and double reefed genoa. It was a wild ride. We departed Dutch shortly after 9 yesterday morning and tied to the dock here at King Cove at 21:00. Feels good to be buttoned up, extra lines and fender out, listening to the winds howl. All's well on Tumbleweed.

At 08/24/2019 11:40 (utc) our position was 55º03.239'N - 162º19.611’W

August 25, 2019

Volcano Bay feels mostly detached from the known world. A grizzly is feeding along the shoreline, there are flocks of white birds that scatter, drifting like a cloud before settling, wildflowers color the landscape with washes of purple and in the distance are hills and ridges that are covered in mist, each receding with less definition until there is nothing but a wall of swirling mist. Salmon are spawning across the bay, many jumping and slamming onto the water’s surface while others are up along the shore, leaping and thrashing about, waiting to be snagged by a grizzly. We departed King Cove in a moment of respite from the winds that had kept us pinned to the dock, this morning the winds slacked as we were sleeping and in the moment of silence we jumped from bed, fired up the engine, tossed off the lines and made a run for it. We had been seeing 20 knots on the beam pretty much since our arrival and had been working out various strategies for our departure but were grateful for the option to make a less complicated exit. We passed through a collection of small islands and bays, at times in sunshine, at times in rain, winds slacking to a few knots and then gusting into the 20’s. We kept well reefed and ran the engine when needed, we were in no hurry and enjoyed the scenery. It feels like the seasons are changing, that there is a shift in the seasons, the weather is so volatile and there is a chill to the air. But maybe that is just typical of summer at this latitude. . All's well on Tumbleweed. <BR/>

At 08/24/ 2019 11:40 (utc) our position was 55º 13.638' N 162º 1.332' W

August 27, 2019

We are anchored deep in Zachary bay, behind a domed islet. The scenery is overwhelming in its beauty. In every direction there are pristine landscapes, mountains, plains, cliffs that line the bay and snow capped volcanoes in the distance. We past a small fishing boat at the mouth of the bay but tucked back depths where we are now it seems as though this area has been forgotten and unvisited. We are anchored in 35 feet, well set in mud. Our sail from Volcano bay was past mountain ranges and along the shores of several islands with the Alaskan peninsula to the north. We upped anchor in 20 knots of wind while seven grizzly bears foraged on the shore. The days weather was a mix of a bit of everything, winds in the 20’s that gusted to 30, then would die out and leave us trying to make way with a few knots of wind but left over chop. We made the mistake of assuming the weather had turned to light airs and were caught with full main and genoa when the winds suddenly piped back up to 20 knots. At times we ripped along at 8 knots and at other times we struggled to make any headway. It’s been a while since we’ve experienced such dynamic conditions. It felt like we made more sail changes and tacked more than our whole passage from Japan. Happy to be in this stunning anchorage. All's well on Tumbleweed.

At 08/28/2019 04:40 (utc) our position was 55º20.196'N - 160º36.328’W

September 3, 2019

At anchor tonight in the beautiful Chiachi bay with our friends on Nosy Be a few boat lengths away. We had an excellent day of sailing from Sandpoint, mostly downwind with boisterous seas. The landscape is stunning, this anchorage is surrounded on three sides by steep valleys covered in lush grasses. A whale spouted in greeting as we approached, puffins abound, eagles hunt the beach. The forecast is for five nights tonight but sounds more like twenty in the rigging. Tomorrow early we move Toward Chignik to get ahead of the next weather front approaching. All's well on Tumbleweed.

At 09/03/2019 11:40 (utc) our position was 55º50.742'N - 159º06.413’E

September 4, 2019

We are Chignik for the next couple of days, waiting out high winds forecast in the next few days. We left Chiachi Bay this morning shortly after first light. The winds from yesterday died out over night and we had a restful sleep, Chiachi was calm and protected with solid holding. The coast of the Alaskan peninsula in this area is mostly raw cliff line that often drops from distant valleys and soft shouldered hills abruptly into the sea as though the land was clawed off by some monstrous sea creature. Whales abundant, we passed perhaps a couple dozen feeding and doing various surface displays. Along one cliff we passed hundreds of birds flocking around a school of small fish, mixing in with the various gulls and plain coastal birds were a large number of puffins. There is something so delightfully ungainly and awkward about puffins, there attempts at taking flight often end with them flapping off the top of a wave only to bounce off the water a few times before calling it quits and deciding they’d rather float around a bit. The marina is Chignik is newer, well built and set up. There is a long transient dock immediately after entering the harbor. When we arrived we had it to ourselves but a couple of fishing boats have joined us for the night. All's well on Tumbleweed.

At 09/05/2019 04:40 (utc) our position was 56º18.242'N - 158º22.795’W

September 8, 2019

After waiting out a rough patch of weather in Chignik, we sailed on to Sutwik island today. At Chignik we were welcomed with generosity and genuine kindness. A really neat village, remote and tucked along at the end of the bay against a mountain. Fishermen gave us several beautiful salmon fresh from the sea and pointed us to a choice spot for picking blueberries. There was no rain in Chignik during the month of August but I think the deluge that rolled through topped off the reservoirs nicely. We arrived a day after the grocery store had closed for the season and the famous donut shop and bakery was also closed. We were left to forage for ourselves and picked enough blueberries for a couple of nice breakfasts. Chignik marina is 6 years old and well maintained, it was an excellent place to sit through the weather that passed through. We saw solid 48 knots on our instruments and gusts were higher. This morning we pulled away at first light with six knots of wind and motored out into the outer bay where we picked up a few more knots and set main and genoa with a double reef with the staysail as well. Once we cleared the outer harbor the winds quickly built into the high teens before settling into a really nice beam reach in the low 20’s, we had a fine passage flying along at 7.5 to 8 knots much of the time to Sutwik. There was some residual swell left over from the high winds of the previous couple of days and we surfed some nice waves as we approached Sutwik. The anchorage here is fine for SW conditions, we are well set in what I think is either sand or mud, exposed to the North. Not many options between here and Agripina, our destination for tomorrow. All's well on Tumbleweed.

At 09/08/2019 04:40 (utc) our position was 56º34.998'N - 157º16.634’W

September 9, 2019

Kate and Paul on Iolea described Agripina as one of their favorite anchorages in all their years of cruising. It is an amazing harbor, forlorn, remote, with a narrow passage that took us close to rough hewn rock islets, serene in this calm weather but I can imagine the violence of the sea when a storm sets in. The entrance from the pacific is past several rocky islands with long, curved beaches to each side. This is a mountainous section of coastline and there are several formidable peaks in view as we entered, one with a large ice field. There are no trees yet on this section of the Alaskan peninsula, the rocky landscape is either covered in dense, low lying vegetation or bare rock. The anchorage is well sheltered and holding is excellent. To the north the cove shallows and there is a beach with dense grasses running up a valley. This evening we watched a massive grizzly bear amble out from the grass and take a stroll on the beach. High winds are in the coming forecast so we plan to wait out the weather here for a couple of days before continuing up the coast to Geographic Harbor. All's well on Tumbleweed.

At 09/10/2019 02:56 (utc) our position was 56º6.794'N - 156º28.553’W

September 12, 2019

At anchor tonight in peaceful and nicely sheltered Big Alnichak Bay after a long haul from Agripina Harbor. Anchor up at first light this morning in light rain and little wind at Agripina Harbor. Leaving the shelter of the harbor we hit large swell that hit the entrance to the bay but did not enter. A few miles from shore we headed north and had following seas with wind on the beam. For much of the day we flew along at 7 or 8 knots often surfing down the large swell that built up with yesterday’s high winds. In the afternoon the winds diminished and we motor sailed the last stretch into this beautiful bay. The sea hits a steep wall at the mouth of the bay, rising from 800 feet to a little over a hundred in a short distance, resulting in the largest swell we rode of the day, two to three meters. Just before heading into the bay we were riding the big swell and dodging logs and other debris lifted from the nearby beaches but once we made our way behind the protection of the headlands that shelter the bay the sea calmed anchoring in nearly flat waters. This is another beautiful anchorage, well sheltered on three sides, though open to the east, with long, sandy beaches around the bay and numerous waterfalls running strong from the rain of the last few days. We have seen sea otters and seals in the bay,many whales were feeding along the cliffs we passed before arriving. All's well on Tumbleweed.

At 09/13/2019 05:56 (utc) our position was 57º48.131'N - 155º18.631’W

September 14, 2019

Geographic Harbor is one of the most stunning anchorages we have found ourselves on this trip around the pacific. Surrounded on three sides by peaks dusted with volcanic ash we are anchored in a small cove off of the main two bays that make up the harbor. This anchorage is famous for bear watching, we are expecting sightseers to arrive by plane at any moment, but so far we have not seen bears though several sea otters and bald eagles. The entrance to the bay is through a collection of rugged islets and rocks awash in surf, up a long narrow channel into the protection of this inner bay. Only a whisper of wind has stirred the surface of the bay, for the most part it is mirror calm. Trees are again a part of the landscape, and the shores of the harbor are covered in a dense mixture of grasses and shrubs, many in bloom, with dandelion seeds caught in the light airs and drifting over the water. It is an idyllic spot. All's well on Tumbleweed.

At 09/143/2019 00:56 (utc) our position was 58º06.649'N - 154º33.902’W

September 17, 2019

We departed Geographic Harbor and the Alaskan Peninsula for Kodiak Island this morning. We had light winds for a few hours but they soon dismissed and we motor sailed with the staysail up mostly to give us lateral support in the beam seas. It was rainy and soon the peninsula behind us and the islands ahead were all shrouded in fog. At times we were in a full grey out, every direction a light grey wall, the sea maintained at 18 percent grey for the most part. Bare Island is tucked back in Dry Spruce Bay, there are lodges and cabins along the shore and a cannery further back. The hills are covered in trees, full sized firs, we have not seen a full forest for months, the Aleutians and the peninsula are devoid of trees. The comforting feeling of again being amidst forests is offset by the large fishing vessel washed ashore on the beach nearest where we are anchored. Stripped of all essentials, it appears to have been here for some time. Tomorrow morning we’ll be up at first light to get into position to transit Whale Passage and make our way to Kodiak, where we hope to settle or at least advance the question, where are we spending the winter? All's well on Tumbleweed.

At 09/18/2019 02:15 (utc) our position was 57º57.012'N - 153º03.725’W

September 18, 2019

Calm morning of motoring through Whale passage and on to Kodiak. We used Navionic’s tide forecast for Whale Passage and it was accurate. Topped off the fuel tanks at the nicest fuel dock we’ve been to in memory. Settled into Kodiak’s inner marina for the next few days. They are booked up solid so we are planning on moving to Homer with the next good weather window. All's well on Tumbleweed.

At 09/19/2019 04:15 (utc) our position was 57º47.263'N - 152º24.554'W

September 28, 2019

After a morning of beautiful sailing in ugly weather we dropped anchor in an arm of Izhut Bay. Kodiak is well protected behind a cluster of small Islands and in the marina this morning all was calm. As we left the shelter of the islands winds above 20 knots were waiting for us and the flat seas grew into short, choppy, brutish waves. Visibility was poor with fog and rain surrounding us. With the winds and seas on the beam we made excellent time though, with the aid of current we were soon romping along at 7 to 8 knots at times hitting 9. It was a pounding ride, when at the helm we had a foot on the cockpit combing with water racing below and the waves sometimes crashing aboard. Larger waves that aligned just right swept over the deck and over the helmsman. It was thrilling, but cold and tiring. It was nice to tuck into Izhut bay and find this calm cove waiting for us. We anchored in 25 feet, surrounded by a rugged shore with a few small beaches, mostly rock that meets the water, low hills around us so no worries of williwaws. Keeping an eye out for Kodiak bears. All's well on Tumbleweed.

At 09/28/2019 21:36 (utc) our position was 58º12.488'N - 152º19.582’W

September 30, 2019

The weather forecast for the next few days is looking grim, storm warnings to the north and a couple of ugly low pressure systems rolling through. Izhut bay was beautiful and we enjoyed the solitude but we did not think it would be the best place to be if the system comes over us. At night as Tumbleweed drifted about the bay in the slack winds we could hear the anchor dragging over rocks, if there are strong winds coming we’d prefer that the anchor be well lodged in mud. This morning the winds were calm and the seas flat, we motored around the corner to Kitoi Bay, there is a hatchery at the head of the bay and several tidy buildings. The surrounding hills are scarred and plucked from logging, with young fir trees replanted and beginning to take hold. A small plane was taking off as we entered the bay, a change from the emptiness in the next bay over. Kitoi is nicely tucked away for weather from the north but it appears it might not be a good spot for hiding from easterlies. We’ll be here a few nights and then make our way to Discoverer bay and then on to the mainland. Weather depending we might head for Redfox bay to make the passage or sail directly from Discoverer. The waters between Afognak and the mainland are notoriously awful in bad weather so we plan to wait for the stars to align in our favor. Shortly after arrival we watched a large bear stroll along the shore, our first sighting of a Kodiak bear. All's well on Tumbleweed.

At 09/30/2019 20:36 (utc) our position was 58º11.331'N - 152º21.777’W

October 3, 2019

Port Graham is a well sheltered harbor with good holding, well marked but not the best for a night arrival. We took advantage of excellent weather to cross from Afognak Island to the Kenai peninsula. The waters around the Barren Islands are notorious for their rough seas and winds in bad weather. Deparing Kitoi Marina at 4am, it was pitch black and Douglas was at the bow keeping watch for logs. We had light winds, smooth seas and motored much of the day, in the afternoon we were able to motor sail adding a knot to our speed. Tidal currents run strong on either side of the Barren Islands, since it is such a long passage we had to plan for having the current against us part of the day and having the current with us as well as slack tide. The weather and currents worked to our advantage and we had a good stretch where we sailed at 9 knots. The Barren Islands were beautiful, they took volcanic and severe, but in the sunlight they were spectacular. We anchored in Graham bay at 21:30, setting well in deep mud. A quiet and calm night after a 95 mile run, our longest anchor to anchor single day run. All's well on Tumbleweed.

At 10/04/2019 05:30 (utc) our position was 59º21.420'N - 151º49.006’W

October 4, 2019

Homer, Alaska. Since leaving Japan in early July we have been on the move searching for where we would spend the winter. We left Japan intent on spending the winter in Port Townsend but after our detour to Dutch Harbor and realizing we had missed our best weather window for sailing south, we decided to find a spot in Alaska for the winter. Kodiak was a strong contender but turned out to be over popular and there was no space for us. We considered Cordova but the isolation due to the ferry system being shut down and the lack of roads to the rest of Alaska took it off the list. Homer has been highly recommended as having a great community and a nice marina. We arrived this afternoon after a smooth passage from Port Graham and are looking forward to wintering here. The marina is nice and well sheltered, the landscape is stunning, across Kachemak Bay we can see a string of mountains and glaciers. The marina is at the end of a 4 mile long spit with long sweeping beaches to each side of the road on the spit. Should make for good walks and exploring. This evening we are happy to be at rest, it has been so many months since we have been somewhere we can feel settled for a few months. Could be a while before our next update, though we hope to sail this winter in the region and look forward to exploring Prince William sound. All's well on Tumbleweed.

At 10/04/2019 22:00 (utc) our position was 59º36.420'N - 151º25.687’W